The four things you probably do not need
- Boots, by default. A healthy dog with conditioned pads on earth, grass and moderate rock is fine barefoot. Buy boots for sharp scree, winter salt, hot rock or an existing injury — not as standard kit.
- A dog pack on short walks. A pack adds heat and changes the dog’s balance on uneven ground. On a two-hour walk it is carrying almost nothing useful. On a full day where the dog carries its own water, it earns its place.
- Collapsible bowls, if you have a bottle with one built in. A separate bowl is one more thing to unpack, which is one more reason not to bother offering water.
- A cooling vest for mild weather. They work by evaporation, so they do genuine work in dry heat and very little in humidity — and in mild conditions they are just a wet layer. Shade and shorter days do more.
Before you go
Three checks that cost nothing. Confirm dogs are actually allowed and whether they must be on a leash — ground-nesting bird seasons and livestock change the answer on land where dogs are normally welcome. Check the forecast for the temperature at the time you will be highest and most exposed, not for the car park at nine in the morning. And be honest about your dog’s current fitness: dogs will keep going well past the point where they should stop, and a hiking day is a poor place to discover the limit.
On the trail
Offer water at every break, whether or not the dog seems interested. Check paws when you stop — grit between the pads and a small cut are far easier to deal with early. Watch for heavy panting with a wide, flat tongue, which is a dog telling you it is hot rather than working, and act on it with shade and water rather than pressing on. And when you get back, run your hands over the whole dog: ticks, thorns and grass seeds all hide, and finding them in the car park is much better than finding them on Thursday.